Alpine Everest Guides Nepal
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Pumori Expedition Spring 2015

The Mount Pumori Base camp can be reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight; and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.

Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.

Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice wall’s way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it's vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori.

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the zenith of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.

South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997.

Itinerary:

 

14 April 2015

Day 01

Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel

15 April 2015

Day 02

Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition

16 April 2015

Day 03

Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism 

17 April 2015

Day 04

Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge

18 April 2015

Day 05

Phakding to Namche lodge

19 April 2015

Day 06

Namche rest for acclimatization lodge

20 April 2015

Day 07

Namche - Thyanboche lodge

21 April 2015

Day 08

Thyangboche - Pheriche lodge

22 April 2015

Day 09

Pheriche - Lobuche lodge

23 April 2015

Day 10

Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping

24 April - 12 May 2015

Day 11-29

Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m.

13 May 2015

Day 30

Pumori BC - Pangboche -Lodge

14 May 2015

Day 31

Pangboche - Namche -Lodge

15 May 2015

Day 32

Namche - Lukla - Lodge

16 May 2015

Day 33

Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel

17 May 2015

Day 34

Kathmandu

18 May 2015

Day 35

Final departures

 

Cost includes:

 

  • 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
  • Permit fee of Pumori 7145m. Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Pumori
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  • Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
  • Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  • Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  • Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  • Fare Well dinner

 

Cost does not include:

 

  • PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  • Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
  • Personal expenses.
  • Bar Bills & beverage.
  • Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

 

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