Makalu Expedition Spring 2015

Makalu was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition.

The first attempt on mount Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated.

In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring, successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days.

The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.

Makalu West Face
It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final.

The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".

The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Itinerary:

 

06 April 2015	Day 01	Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
07 April 2015	Day 02	Prepare for expedition
08 April 2015	Day 03	Briefing in Ministry of tourism  prepare for expedition
09 April 2015	Day 04	Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
10 April 2015	Day 05	Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
11 April 2015	Day 06	Kuwapani - Chichila
12 April 2015	Day 07	Chichila - Num
13 April 2015	Day 08	Num- Seduwa
14 April 2015	Day 09	Seduwa - Tashigaun
15 April 2015	Day 10	Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
16 April 2015	Day 11	Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
17 April 2015	Day 12	Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
18 April 2015	Day 13	Yangle Khark -Merak
19 April 2015	Day 14	Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
20 April 2015	Day 15	Sersung - Makalu Base camp
21 April - 22 May 2015	Day 16-47	Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
23 May 2015	Day 48	Makalu BC - Mumbuck
24 May 2015	Day 49	Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
25 May 2015	Day 50	Khongma La - Seduwa
26 May 2015	Day 51	Seduwa - Chichila
27 May 2015	Day 52	Chichila - Tumlingtar
28 May 2015	Day 53	Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
29 May 2015	Day 54	Kathmandu
30 May 2015	Day 55	Final Departure

 

Cost includes:

 

• 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast- hotel 3 star.
• Permit fee of Makalu 1-8463m Expedition
• Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Makalu
• Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
• Porter from Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
• Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
• Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
• Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
• 1 tent for 1 person for Base camp of Makalu
• Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
• Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
• Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
• Satellite phone (Pay calls)
• Fare Well dinner

 

Cost does not include:

 

• PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
• Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
• Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
• Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
• Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed
• Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
• Oxygen & Mask -regulator
• Personal expenses
• Bar Bills & beverage
• Garbage Deposit and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients

 

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